Exeter guidebook

Exeter Cathedral 

If you're a fan of ecclesiastical gothic, Exeter is the place for you.

Its magnificent cathedral (1050), which dominates the skyline, has one of the finest vaulted ceilings in the country, and the dazzling interior is lavishly embellished with stained glass, wood carvings, paintings, bosses and sculpture.

It's one of the top tourist attractions in a city that, despite the best efforts of the Luftwaffe, has managed to hold on to some fine historic buildings.

Among the highlights are medieval churches, priories, and guildhalls; Tudor timber-frame; Victorian catacombs; and riverside quays with architecture spanning several centuries.

All of this is testimony to two thousand years of history encompassing Celts, Romans and Normans, though in more recent years it was the German bombers that made the most lasting impact.

City Centre

Princesshay shops 

The city centre was comprehensively flattened during the blitz and rebuilt, with mixed results, in the 1950s.

The historic core around Cathedral Close remains intact, with cobbled streets and attractive boutiques, cafes and restaurants making it a popular meeting place. 

The cobbled Gandy Street, on the other side of the High Street, is also among the city centre's most attractive thoroughfares.
     
Elsewhere it's more anonymous, though the council has made some attempt to redress the balance with the £230m redevelopment of the Princesshay area.

Located between Cathedral Close and the pedestrianised High Street, this area was an unprepossessing collection of post-war shops and cafes but a new shopping mall and residential development have brought life back into the heart of the community.

It hasn't been universally popular – a vociferous group fought to keep the area as it was before – but advocates believe it to be one of the best things to happen to Exeter for a long time.

Economy & Population

Quayside 

Princesshay, the High Street, and further south, the Quays, are now the focal points of a busy and vibrant city centre - Exeter is a buzzing student town, the county town of Devon, and, according to the council, "has a 45 minute catchment of nearly half a million people".

As one of the largest urban areas in the West Country (Plymouth being the other), it does a lot of the heavy lifting on the economic front, and provides most of the jobs in the Exeter and Heart of Devon sub-region. 

Exeter University and Devon County Council are major employers (public administration, education and health provide 38 per cent of the jobs), the service sector is also crucial (21 per cent), and banking and insurance come third (19 per cent).

All of this makes Exeter a magnet for workers and students, and as a consequence the population is on the up.

In the years between the census in 1991 and 2006 it grew by 14 per cent (from 104,800 to 119,600), higher than any other South West urban area and more than three times the national average.

Regional Hub 

Cathedral grounds 

As well as being a regional powerhouse drawing people in to work and study, Exeter is also a cultural centre with a lively arts scene; excellent shopping; and a crackling nightlife.

It's also a jumping off point for the delights of Devon and Cornwall.

Dartmoor National Park is close by, Exmoor is 30 miles away, and the coastal towns and villages to the west are among the prettiest and most visited in England.

Closer to home, the city is surrounded by valley parks and countryside walks. The rivers and waterways (including the Exe estuary) are a big draw for sailors, anglers, walkers and nature lovers, and there's plenty of green space in the city, too (250 acres, according to the council).

If you can manage to tear yourself away from all of this, the airport, six miles from the city, will take you to a wide range of British and European destinations. It also has flights to the US.

Property

Stats: Terraces are the most common form of housing in Exeter (34 per cent), followed by semis (26.5 per cent), flats (22.5 per cent), and detached houses (14.8 per cent).

Owner occupation stands at 65.8 per cent and private lettings make up 12.6 per cent of households (Census 2001, Exeter local authority).

Neighbourhoods

1. St Leonards: The two prime areas for property within Exeter itself are St Leonards and the area around the university. 

These are particularly popular with professional families who send their children to the wide selection of private schools nearby, and are close to the hospitals and the excellent range of shops and facilities in the Magadelen Road area.

In St Leonards, which has a lively local parish church, the architecture is mainly Victorian and Regency with some very spacious and gracious homes. 

Adjoining the campus of the university are roads such as Streatham Drive and Streatham Rise which are mainly 1930s houses with large gardens, and are particularly popular with families.

From here there is easy access to the university, the amenities of the city centre and the railway station.

2. St David's: With over 14,000 students on the university campus plus one of the main sites of the Peninsula Medical School, which is operated jointly with Plymouth University, there are obviously a lot of students to accommodate in the city.

A large proportion of these can be found in the St David's area where many of the houses are divided up into flats and bedsits.

3. Pennsylvania: Another popular student location is Pennsylvania on the high ground to the north of the city between the ancient deer park of Duryard and Stoke Hill, but also within easy reach of the university.

J. K. Rowling lived here while she was a student in the late 1980s, and it is a popular theory that her description of the kind of suburbia where Harry Potter was brought up comes from her time here. 

It was the last area to be developed in the 19th century, due to its steep-sided valleys, and was named after the American state by Joseph Sparkes who built the first terrace around 1820.

Its southern slopes, nearest to the city, include many spacious late Victorian and Edwardian houses, while on the steep higher hills heading north out of Exeter, the housing is mainly 1920s-1970s, with a few newer estates on the city's extremities.

Its proximity to Exeter University has made it popular with academics and students.

4. St Thomas: This district is located on the western side of the river and linked to the city by Exe Bridge. It has a number of pubs, places of worship, a couple of schools and a large shopping precinct. 

5. Exwick: To the north west of the city is Exwick where over a third of the population is under 25 and less than ten per cent are over 65.

One of the most significant developments here in recent years was the conversion of a former hospital into a large community of luxurious houses and apartments standing in landscaped grounds and known as Devington Park.

6. Isca Place: Another recent development particularly popular with young professionals is Isca Place near to both the river and the city centre, and the redevelopment of Princesshay has also created new housing and apartments in the heart of the city.

7. Alphington: Situated to the south west of the city, Alphington is the third largest ward in the city with a village-like community at its heart.  It is surrounded on two sides by  countryside, and the Marsh Barton trading estate is to the east.

Mile End Cottage, on the main road through the village, is the house that Charles Dickens gave to his parents in 1839.  There are numerous other thatched cottages dating from the 17th century onwards as well as a Victorian prison building, recently renovated, and an old Victorian school building. 

8. Countess Wear: This area takes its name from the nearby weir which was constructed in 1286.  Some historical structures remain but the predominant housing stock here is mid 20th century private or council built property.

9. Heavitree: This district lies to the east of the city centre, and was formerly the first significant village outside the city on the London Road.

Much traffic continues to pass through the area, since it lies on the most convenient route from the city centre to the M5 and A30.

It is also the base for the Royal Devon and Exeter Heavitree Hospital, and the Heavitree Police Station. The other branch of the Royal Devon and Exeter Hospital is at Wonford.  Heavitree football team is one of the better known local teams.

Living Here

Transport:

Rail: There are two mainline railway stations, Exeter St Davids to London Paddington and London Waterloo, and Exeter Central which serves local lines and the London Waterloo service.

Local lines run to Torbay, Exmouth and Barnstaple, and there is a summer weekend service to Okehampton for access to Dartmoor.

There are also six suburban stations, Topsham, St James Park, Pinhoe, Exeter St Thomas, Polsloe Bridge, and Digby & Sowton, linking the different parts of the city.

Road: The M5 links to Bristol and Birmingham, which in turn links to the M4 to London.

The A30 offers an alternative route to London via the A303 and M3. 

Bus: Local and country buses link to the surrounding towns and villages,  and regional express services run to Plymouth, Torbay and Cornwall.  National Express is there for the longer haul.

Air: Exeter International Airport is six miles to the east of the city. It’s the largest airport in the region and offers flights to a wide range of British and European destinations, and to the US and Canada.

Shopping:

Princesshay: The newly developed Princesshay is the focal point for shopping in Exeter with Debenhams as the main anchor store. There are 60 other shops, cafes and restaurants.

The High Street: This is still the main shopping street for Exeter with numerous other shopping parts leading off it, notably Queen Street, South Street, Sidwell Street, Fore Street and Gandy Street. 

There are also shopping centres at Harlequins and Guildhall.

Exeter Quay: A fifteen minute walk from the town centre, this has an eclectic mix of antiques, clothing and homeware shops and boutiques, and small independent stores.

The area also has craft workshops located in historic cellars and bonded warehouses by the River Exe.

Markets: There's a popular Farmers' Market on South Street/Fore Street every Thursday from 9am - 2pm. There is also an open air market on Sidwell Street – mainly clothing and home products.

Retail Parks: These can be found a little further out at Exe Bridge, Marsh Barton and Rydon Lane.

Darts Farm: On the edge of Topsham this very attractive out-of-town shopping complex offers a rare blend of the finest local and organic produce, clothing and beauty products, top quality fabrics and fittings for the home, garden products, gifts, restaurants, and contemporary art.

Powderham Castle: In the nearby village of Kenton, on the estate of the Earls of Devon, is an excellent shopping centre and food hall stocking the finest local produce.

Eating & Drinking:

Exeter is swiftly gaining a name as a centre for good food – being surrounded by some of the most productive agricultural land in the country, and a coastline delivering quality seafood on a daily basis, certainly helps. 

One of Exeter’s most famous sons is renowned two-starred Michelin chef Michael Caines MBE. His acclaimed ABode chain of hotels and restaurants was launched in the city's Royal Clarence Hotel.

He also operates a more informal Café Bar, and for those prepared to travel out of town, a short journey down the A30 will take you to Gidleigh Park, one of the finest country house hotels in England, where he is executive chef.
 
Exeter is also the scene of an annual food and drink festival. In nearby Topsham there are no less than four award-winning restaurants, helping to earn it the accolade of Best Small Town for Food in the 2006 Western Morning News food awards.

Entertainment:

Northcott Theatre: Located on the campus of the university, it stages a variety of productions and is one of the few regional theatres still to have its own company, as well as running youth and community theatres.

Its annual open air Shakespeare performance in the grounds of Rougemont Castle is well regarded, and although currently undergoing a year-long renovation project, the theatre is opening again for the Christmas 2007 pantomime.

Barnfield Theatre: In the city centre, this is used as a venue for amateur and professional companies and has also been recently refurbished

Phoenix Arts Centre: Offers a varied programme of dance, live music, art and film. 

Cinema: The two main cinemas in Exeter are the Picture House and the Odeon.

Westpoint Arena: On the outskirts of town, it stages concerts by international artists of all kinds, spectacular performances including ice shows, and exhibitions.

Every May it is the scene of the annual three-day Devon County Show which attracts a huge variety of exhibitors and entertainers as well as showcasing the best the agricultural community has to offer.

Classical Music: There are regular classical music concerts at the university and in the cathedral, and Exeter has a variety of live music venues.

Museums: The city museum is the Royal Albert in Queen Street and there is also an established modern art gallery, the SpaceEx. 

Sport & Leisure

Football: Exeter City football club, the Grecians, have been relegated from the football league but have a colourful history including attracting international superstar Michael Jackson to the terraces in 2002 at the invitation of his friend, Uri Geller, who was a director of the club. 

Rugby: There are two main rugby clubs, the Exeter Chiefs and the Saracens, who both play in National Division One.

Cricket & Racing: There is also a cricket team, and Exeter Racecourse, sitting on top of Haldon Hill, has meetings throughout the year.

Leisure Centres: Leisure centres with swimming pools and sports facilities include the Pyramids, the Riverside and Northbrook Swimming Pool.

There are facilities for most other main sports including squash, tennis, bowls,  hockey, a well regarded rowing club, and the Exeter Golf and Country Club.