A short walk in any direction from St. Helens' town centre soon makes apparent the salient feature of the place - open space, be it parks, play areas, dedicated footpaths or old towpaths.
The good people of this parish love the great outdoors, and even today are building parks, forging new footpaths, and living up to the town's motto: 'Ex Terra Lucem', or 'Out Of The Earth, Light'.
Perhaps such abundant open space is what you need to nurture the world's most successful rugby league side – St Helens RLFC are the unique winners of a treble of national, European and international titles, further bolstering their already heaving trophy cabinet.
Heart of Glass
The town has bucked the trend in other ways, too: if sporting prowess has remained undimmed here, so has industry.
Pilkingtons, synonymous with the town, retains its status as a global player in the technology of glass manufacture; in 1903 it became the only firm in Britain to produce flat glass, a role it has retained ever since.
Indeed, it was glass, along with coal and copper, that brought St. Helens into existence.
Four villages, Parr, Sutton, Eccleston and Windle, gradually coalesced to take advantage of a unique industrial crossroads: Cheshire salt to the south; Liverpool's port to the west; and coal seams and fine sand in the immediate locality.
Transport Hub
Then there were the transport innovations: the world's first industrial waterway, the Sankey Canal, was built in St Helens in 1757 to transport coal supplies to the burgeoning port of Liverpool via the River Mersey at Warrington.
Today it lingers on, in parts, as a quiet recreational zone, belying its frenetic early history.
And two miles to the south, in October 1829, a new era was born with the Rainhill Trials: five locomotive engines that slugged it out over a mile-long stretch of land to win the monopoly to operate the first ever passenger railway, the Liverpool & Manchester.
History has fittingly turned full circle with the railway; St Helens Council wanted a "statement building" as a gateway into town, and in December 2007 the £6m central train station was opened, an arresting affair with two large glass bulges to the facade - supplied, of course, by Pilkingtons.
Regeneration
Theatre Royal, Pic: Stuart Rayner
The new station is part of a larger overhaul – in recent years a lot of money has been spent boosting infrastructure and reshaping the town centre.
This has been carried out as part of the City Growth Strategy (CGS), an economic development method pioneered at Harvard University.
The 10-year CGS plan hopes to create a new brand - St Helens plc – and is undertaking dozens of projects to achieve this goal. The emphasis is on cultural and physical transformation, business development, and changing perceptions of the place.
The George Street Cultural Quarter, which features the 20 metre high The Needle sculpture, has been especially successful, garnering 18 regional and national design awards.
Other developments in the pipeline include:
• The ongoing development of the town centre (resurfacing the retail area, new lighting, seating and trees)
• A complete redevelopment of St Helens Hospital
• A new campus for St Helens College
• Plans to expand the Haydock racecourse
• A new 18,000-seater stadium for St Helens Rugby League Club
• The ongoing development of the Ravenhead Retail Park, now one of the UK's top 20 retail parks
• The commissioning of a landmark new artwork overlooking the M62 – one of 7 UK Channel 4 Big Art Project sites
All of this seems to be paying off. The St Helens Local Enterprise Growth Initiative (LEGI) has created more than 550 new businesses and 1,250 new jobs, and in 2007 Barclays Bank named St Helens as one of the top 11 places for business start up growth.
Property
Eccleston property
According to the 2001 census the borough of St Helens has a population of 176,843.
There are 72,600 households.
Semis dominate the housing stock (47.5 per cent), followed by terraces (31.3 per cent), detached houses (31.2 per cent), and flats (seven per cent).
While owner-occupancy is on a par with national levels, renting from the local authority is higher (19 per cent as opposed to 13 per cent).
Private renting is less than half the national figure (four per cent versus nine per cent).
Haresfinch property
As part of the regeneration programme, there has been a good deal of development in recent years. Over 2,400 new homes were completed between 2004-2006, and various development projects are in the pipeline, including three new urban villages (2,200 new homes).
Central here will be the £140m transformation of the derelict 50-hectare site at Moss Nook, Sutton. The plan promises a 1,200-home community with high quality housing and amenities, tree-lined boulevards, village greens and allocated open spaces.
St Helens is bisected neatly by the dual carriageway A58 which runs south-west to north-east through the town. Above this line is St Helens North; below is St Helens South.
ST HELENS NORTH
1. Eccleston and Windle
It's fair to say that the top dogs in St. Helens' property lie in the north-west extremity; here, facing the palatial estate of the Earls of Derby in Knowsley Park, are Eccleston and Windle.
There has been much new-build that matches the olde-world class of the place, especially in Eccleston.
Retirement apartments have slotted in nicely next to spacious detached houses that blend well with the villa-sized semis of old. There is a proliferation of faux half-timber and post-war bungalows in all shapes and sizes.
Eccleston is especially sought-after for the high achieving Catholic schools of St. Julie's Primary and the De La Salle High School while Windle benefits from close proximity to the transport artery of East Lancs Road (A580).
2. Clinkham Wood and Moss Bank
St. Helens' sole estates north of the East Lancs Road are Clinkham Wood and Moss Bank. These have great road links and the sprawling Carr Mill Dam serves as a country park.
Housing consists of inter-war semis, smart new estates, post-war bungalows, barn conversions and cottages, and plentiful garages and large gardens echo the fact that these two areas are bounded by countryside on three sides.
3. Haresfinch
Haresfinch is to the south, between the A580 and the Wigan-bound railway, which give this area a separate feel, and the Friends of Haresfinch Park cement the sense of community.
Focused around a park and a primary school, Haresfinch is a mix of inter-war and post-war semis and bungalows, with gardens and plenty of automobile space, and half-timber and rustic brick facades are features of the more recent properties.
4. Laffak
Over the railway line, running south to the A58, is the homogenous post-war estate of Laffak. This is a very green spot, with Sankey Valley Country Park to the east, Merton Bank Open Space to the west and a large ribbon-like open area running between them.
Laffak has fine standard housing from the 1960s and '70s, with the semi-weatherboarded facades and twisting venues typical of the day and good parking facilities throughout.
It is very popular with families, with one Church of England and two Catholic primary schools to the east.
5. Denton's Green and Cowley Hill
To the west, and north of the town centre, are Denton's Green and Cowley Hill. Denton's Green is dominated by parkland and playing fields, and populated by old villas and huge semis.
This was clearly the place to be for the industrial elite of St Helens a century ago, and room has been found on its short, boulevard-like streets for some smart new housing additions.
Closer to the main A570 road, property veers towards Victorian terraces. One Catholic and three Church of England primary schools and the plethora of recreation grounds impart a family feel to this busy side of Denton's Green.
Cowley Hill is largely set on the slope between Denton's and the town centre.
The area is now evenly split between the old redbrick terraces found at the heart of most industrial towns – though bigger here than usual - and a large collection of very recent houses and apartments that have been popular with first-timers and BTL investors.
Proximity to the town centre southwards and surrounding parkland have been big selling points, while the emphasis on low-rise apartments and town houses are indicative of modern construction priorities.
ST HELENS SOUTH
1. Parr and Blackbrook
To the south-east of town are Parr and Blackbrook, cut off from the centre by St. Helens Retail Park and old industrial works.
Traditionally the town's 'poor relations', these areas have been popular with first-time buyers entering the property market.
But times are changing: word is that this is the place for investment, and new-builds are springing up to take advantage of what remains, for now anyway, a cheap area.
Older property comes in short terraces with back yards but new semi-detached town houses and three-storey apartment blocks are changing this face of St. Helens.
The Sankey Brook and its attendant Country Park threads through Parr, and the A58 ribbon-development of Blackbrook has countryside to the north and south. Parr has one and Blackbrook two primary schools.
2. Peasley Cross and Sutton
South of Parr are Peasley Cross and Sutton which are divorced from the town by industry to the north and the colossal Sherdley Park to the west.
Peasley Cross has a big draw in the form of the vast St. Helens Hospital, and is a blend of large, modern detached and semi-detached properties with generous garages and small inter-war and post-war terraces and bungalows.
Sutton is St. Helens' most recent success story, and this once unfashionable enclave has benefited from a building boom since 2000, with dedicated areas of affordable housing joining the old industrial cottage-terraces.
A new urban village is planned for the area and promises a 1,200-home community with high quality housing and amenities, tree-lined boulevards, village greens and allocated open spaces.
Countryside on two sides and its own railway station, St. Helens Junction, are further attractions in this quiet district, alongside one Catholic and two Church of England primary schools.
3. Clock Face
Clock Face is the southernmost outpost of St. Helens and a microcosm of more than a century of British housing styles.
You'll find Victorian and inter-war terraces, dormer bungalows, bay window properties, Edwardian villas and modern half-timbered creations - everything bar flats, in fact – and its distance from town has kept prices reasonable.
It has its own shopping area, the Four Acres Precinct, and is ideally placed for transport, with Lea Green train station to the north and J7 of the M62 to the south.
4. Sutton Heath and Thatto Heath
The south-west consists of Sutton Heath and Thatto Heath, separated from St Helens by industry to the north and Sherdley Park to the east.
Sutton is definitely in the premier league of St. Helens' property. The place is awash with classy new four- and five-bed detached houses with garages en bloc, many of them double.
Big gardens and wide driveways are the order of the day, facing countryside to the south and a golf course on its eastern border.
Thatto Heath is much more affordable, and a good hunting ground for new buyers who can pick from the many recent low-rise flats alongside the traditional terraces.
Its own train station, park, dedicated footpaths and a primary and secondary school add to the lustre of this quiet area.
5. West Park and Ravenhead
Straddling the A58 to the west are West Park and Ravenhead. Along with Denton's Green, this was obviously the place to be in the industrial apex of St. Helens' history.
Towering Victorian and Edwardian villas with fancy gablework maintain their attraction, and have since been joined by inter-war semis with big front and back gardens, and post-war properties with garages or allocated parking in the case of apartments.
The beautiful, undulating Taylor Park lies to the west and there is close proximity to the town centre at the east.
LIVING HERE
Transport
Road: Motorways surround St. Helens on three sides - to the west is Liverpool's own ring road, the M57; to the south is the transPennine M62; and to the east is the M6.
On the north side is the East Lancs. Road (A580), and more centrally, the A58 runs west to east and the A557 north to south through town.
Rail: Two railway lines run through St. Helens, both terminating at Liverpool Lime Street.
One line heads north-east towards Wigan and the West Coast Main Line, with stations at Thatto Heath and St Helens Central.
The second, running through the south, has stations at Lea Green and St Helens Junction on the way east to Manchester.
Air: Liverpool John Lennon Airport is 12 miles to the south, and there is a dedicated bus service from St. Helens.
To drive, go south on the A557 and west along the A562, or west along the A58 and south on the M57/A5300.
Alternatively, Manchester Airport is 25 miles to the east.
Sea: The Port of Liverpool is eleven miles west, with ferries to Dublin and Belfast.
Shopping
George Street Quarter: Church Street, Church Square and Duke Street have had recent attention lavished on them with street furniture, new exteriors, renovated paving and safe parking.
Church Street Shopping Centre is the retail focal point here, with almost 100 outlets from HMV and River Island to Bay Trading and BHS.
This is also the place for the best restaurants, with Italian, Spanish, French, Chinese, Thai and British fare on offer.
Hardshaw Centre: Also recently restored, this 1982 shopping parade has 24 outlets offering big names like M&S, Argos and Woolies, with cafes for the weary shopper.
St. Mary's Market: It wouldn’t be Lancashire without a traditional market, and this glass-facade affair is open every day bar Sunday, with 60 stalls set around a cafe.
Ravenhead Retail Park: By the town centre, this has all the big hitters (Boots, Burton, JJB, Carphone, Next, Dorothy Perkins et al) and bills itself as one of Britain's top 20 retail parks.
Tyrers: You can't mention St Helens' shopping facilities without including Tyrers, founded in 1888 and now in its fourth generation of family ownership. Come here for that otherwise vanished department store ambience with old style in-house fashion, restaurant and hairdressing.
Sport
Rugby: St. Helens RLFC have over 50 titles to their name. Founded in 1873, they have played in 19 Challenge Cup Finals and were the first team to win anything at the new Wembley Stadium, before going on to beat the Brisbane Broncos and being crowned world champions.
Unsurprisingly, there is a glut of amateur sides in town: Clock Face, Thatto Heath, Blackbrook, Pilkington Recs, the Bold Miners, Haresfinch and Haydock.
Golf: A popular spot for golfers with four courses: Sherdley Park, Blundells Hill, Eccleston Park and Grange Park.
Cricket: St. Helens Cricket Club on Windleshaw Road has sides ranging from under-9s to seniors.
Football: The town has its own amateur football league, the St. Helens Combination.
Leisure Centres: There are four council-run centres in town: Parr Swimming, Queens Park, Selwyn Jones and Sutton Leisure Centres.
Leisure and Entertainment
St. Helens Festival: A two-day summer extravaganza, this is an excellent showcase for the town, featuring the best in "arts, heritage, culture and music to craft, entertainment and sport" with the promise of "jaw-dropping stunts" besides.
Theatre Royal: This mainstream entertainment complex offers drama, music and comedy, with an emphasis on dance and ballet.
The Citadel: Since 1995 this has provided a welcome injection of culture, with jazz, blues and folk alternating with fine art, comedy, drama and dance.
The Gamble Institute: This houses the town's central library, and also incorporates the Godfrey Pilkington Art Gallery with its ever-changing array of exhibitions.
World of Glass: This huge paean to the industry that made St. Helens has it all: an art gallery, a museum, mirror mazes with fantastic effects, educational outlets and Victorian tunnels, with a towering disused chimney kiln as its impressive entrance.
North West Museum of Road Transport: A central shrine to buses, tankers, trucks, trams, trolleybuses and even a milk float.
Smithy Heritage Centre: Located in Eccleston in an original blacksmith's forge, this has a strong schooling slant and showcases old crafts including the world of the farrier, the wheelwright, the blacksmith and the pre-mechanical farmer.
Cineworld: This town centre cinematic complex has screens galore, showing over 20 films daily.
Churches: Mention must be made of two architectural gems; the pretty Quaker Chapel of 1676, now the town centre's oldest building, and the truly immense St. Mary Lowe, a 1929 Catholic creation described as 'free Romanesque' in style.
Parks and Open Spaces
The town boasts a vast 1,800 acres of recreational grounds. Some of its biggest stars are:
Sankey Valley Country Park: This winding seven-mile linear park shadows the Sankey Brook and ultimately links St. Helens with Warrington.
This rich ribbon of greenery is an important wildlife sanctuary with its central section offering playgrounds and a maze, and there is a Visitor Centre on Blackbrook Road.
Sherdley Park: This enormous 200-acre park is home to woodlands, copses, grasslands, formal gardens, ponds and lakes; it also holds the Municipal Golf Course.
Sutton Park: This 20-acre ground is well-used as a sporting area, with tennis courts, bowls and basketball.
Taylor Park: A truly gorgeous Victorian creation with deeply wooded areas, two lakes (one with boating and an annual regatta), rock and quarry gardens and a suitably refined tearoom.
Victoria Park: Rivalling Taylor for its 19th century style, this is centred on the Mansion House, a sumptuous Grade II villa from 1850 recently restored to its original splendour.
Clock Face Colliery Country Park: Based on former coal mines, this 57-acre park has woodland, walking networks, meadows and angling facilities.
Carr Mill Dam: Billed as England's largest body of inland water, the pretty waterside trails attract anglers and birdwatchers. The Rupert Alcock Memorial Trophy powerboating competition is held here annually.
Sunshine Park: The new kid on the block, this £168,000 "pocket country park" was opened in 2006 and given its optimistic name by pupils of the nearby Allanson Street Primary School.
Steve Roberts
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