Ilkeston guidebook

  pic: Ilkeston town centre
Stand in a bar in Ilkeston, and you might think they're talking in a foreign language.

The locals of this ex-mining town are very proud of their local dialect - they call it "Ilson", by the way - but they will soon share the lingo with you, because that's the kind of place it is.

It's a traditional former mining town with no airs and graces - the people and the town are friendly and solid, just like its town centre and pubs.

There are a few trendy bars, mainly aimed at the youngsters, alongside lots of workmen's pubs where the quality and the price of ale are more important than large screens and cocktails.

Ilkeston isn't a rich town so people like value for money - and that goes for the property as well as the shops.

It depended on council housing as its main source of homes for many years, with only a smattering of upmarket privately owned stock.  But many council tenants grabbed the chance to buy when they could, and now builders are snapping up every spare piece of land to build starter homes.

Ilkeston is Derbyshire's third biggest town with more than 37,000 residents although it's actually closer to Nottingham than Derby. There's plenty of work available between the two cities, and commuting is easy: Nottingham is just eight miles away, and Derby ten.

Ilkeston itself has thriving industries which have replaced the mines, including engineering, hosiery, lace and fabrics, electronics, plastic and food distribution.

It also boasts a big pedestrian shopping centre and lively nightlife, and while it might retain its industrial appearance in parts, it's also packed with parks, trees and flower beds.

And it's rich in history. Its October street fair has been running for more than 755 years, making it one of the oldest in the world, and several Dukes of Rutland used to play cricket here.

So to sum up Ilkeston... a typical mining town, grey in places, but with a sunny outlook on life.

Property in Ilkeston

A lot of people still rent their home here. But for house buyers, you get a lot of house for your money in Ilkeston, which is why investors, especially from nearby Nottingham, are being drawn to the town.

The split between owner-occupiers and social renters is now about equal. Houses were built around industry, so factories and houses still rub shoulders throughout the town.

Ilkeston people tend to stay put and its housing market is being boosted by young families who want to live where they grew up and by the investors who are snapping up properties to rent.

The buy-to-let market is growing, and developers are responding to demand by building new housing estates where factories have closed.

The town is basically split down the middle.

Houses on the east side are more industrial, usually Edwardian terraced types.  To the west, it become more upmarket as it reaches out into the countryside.

Areas in and around Ilkeston

1. Cotmanhay

  pic: Semis in Cotmanhay
Where is it? Out of town down Granby Street towards Awsworth, and turn left into Cotmanhay Road.

It includes the area off Cotmanhay Road, and the Cotmanhay Farm ex-council estate.

What's there? Mixture of old terraced and post-war semis, and a fair sized ex-council estate, now run by a housing association.

Most of the council houses are still rented, but the area is undergoing some regeneration.

Buyers: A fair proportion of elderly tenants who have spent most of their years here, and some younger families.

Pros: The regeneration is fast improving the area. Its inexpensive housing means that occupants get a lot of house for their money.

Cons: It once had a reputation for being the poorer part of town, but that's fast changing.

2. Ilkeston Town Centre

  pic: Apartment conversions
Where is it? It's the myriad of streets around the main shopping area and Chalons Way dual carriage way through the centre of town.

What's there? Mostly terraced houses which were built around the factories.

Buyers: Mixed, but attracting younger professionals and couples who like living closer to the centre.

Pros: Within walking distance of the town centre's shops, pubs and nightlife. Good size, good value for money houses.

Cons: Streets are tight, and parking - and getting through the streets packed with cars - can be a nightmare. Residents do get parking permits but they have to pay for them.

3. The Larklands

  pic: Terraces, The Larklands
Where is it? Slightly further out of the town centre down Chalons Way, built up either side of the area around the dual carriageway.

What's there? Mostly ex-council homes, traditional semis and Edwardian terraced.

Buyers: Becoming a popular area because of the value for money houses. The majority of council tenants have now bought theirs, and it is also attracting families.

Pros: Big houses at the right price - although there is starting to be a premium on house prices.

Cons: Some people are put off by the look of the Edwardian terraces, thinking they look like old pit houses.

4. Hallam Fields

  pic: New build, Hallam Fields
Where is it? Out on the A609 Nottingham Road, just before you hit the M1 motorway, around Little Hallam Lane.

What's there? Again, lots of former council houses, snapped up by their householders when they had the chance. Next to the estate is the Maltings, a new development of town houses.

The Charnos Lingerie factory has recently been demolished and a big housing estate is being built, raising the profile of the area.

Buyers: People looking for affordable housing are moving onto the former council estate, and young professional couples and families are moving into the new build.

Pros: Getting a big shot in the arm with the new developments which are putting the district under the spotlight.

Cons: A distance out of town, too far to walk to amenities so a car is a must.

5. Kirk Hallam

  pic: Bungalows, Kirk Hallam
Where is it?  On the edge of town stretching out towards Derby.

Head down the Stanton Road (A6096) out of town, into Little Hallam Lane, and it's all the roads leading off.

What's there? Again, the majority of houses are former council properties which have been bought by their occupants.
 
Buyers:  First-time buyers and families looking for affordable big houses.

Pros: Good value and attractive location on the edge of the countryside.

Cons: Still looks like a council estate even though there are lots of private home owners.

6. Shipley

  pic: Detached new homes, Shipley
Where is it? On the Heanor Road (A6007) out of town, round and about Hassock Lane South.

What's there? Mix of new town houses to upmarket, substantial detached homes, built in the late 90's.

Buyers: Young professionals and families.

Pros: Attractive houses and pleasant place to live.

Cons: Starting to get pricey, but well worth the money if you can afford it.

7. Awsworth

  pic: Semis is Awsworth
Where is it? Good sized village on the edge of town, to the right past the Cossall industrial estate.

What's there? Some small council houses, a few traditional terraced cottages, but mostly traditional semis.

Buyers: Families, and people who want country life while still being close to the town.

Pros: Village lifestyle in a countryside setting.

Cons: Out of town so away from the amenities and nightlife. You need transport to live here.

Living Here

Transport:

Trains: Ilkeston's three stations have now gone. The nearest are at Derby or Nottingham.

Buses: Good public services from several companies, including buses to Nottingham every twelve minutes and to Derby every half hour.

Road: Not far from the M1 so commuting to the nearby cities of Nottingham, Derby and Sheffield is easy.

Air: East Midlands International Airport (EMA) is fourteen miles away, at junction 24 of the motorway.

Shopping:

  pic: Ilkeston town centre

Still mostly traditional, but all the national chains are here. The Co-op is still a big player, with Ilkeston Co-op Travel a national name in travel.

Tesco has a big store on the Cotmanhay side of town.

The main shopping centre, covering Bath Street and neighbouring streets, is totally pedestrianised, giving shoppers plenty of room to wander. Markets are held on Thursdays and Saturdays.

Eating and drinking:

Plenty of places to eat, mostly traditional grub in the pubs, but some good Chinese, Italian and Indian restaurants, and plenty of takeaways.

The Shah Jehan restaurant in Awsworth Road has a mention in the Good Curry Guide.

Pubs are both trendy and traditional, from the modern Mail House in South Street to the lively St John Warren.  The town centre has a buzzing atmosphere most nights.

Sports and Leisure:

  pic: Cotmanhay Erewash Canal
Sports clubs include Ilkeston Football Club (aka the Robins), Ilkeston Rugby Club at the Stute, Ilkeston girls' football club and a running Club.

Victoria Park Leisure Centre has recently reopened and has several pools, flumes, and a range of water-based classes and activities for a variety of ages and abilities.

Albion Leisure Centre has facilities for sports including 5-a-side football, netball, basketball, volleyball, badminton, table tennis, keep fit and dance classes.

Rutland Sports Park is a new leisure complex which has a wellness centre and  indoor tennis centre, and outdoors facilities include athletics track, 9 hole golf course, Astroturf pitch, bowling green and cricket pitch.

Entertainment:

Entertainment revolves mainly around the lively pubs, and there is a nightclub.

There is also a Scala Cinema, a Ritz Bingo Hall, a ten pin bowling alley, a folk club at the Stute every Wednesday, and an Arts Club.

Open Spaces:

Victoria Park in Manners Road provides eight acres of greenery.

Granby Park, Cotmanhay Road, is an open expanse of grassland on the former site of Granby Colliery.  It has a few play facilities for children.